Ive taken another cylinder off today and it came off fairly easily but the engine is still tight so the strip down continues just hope its not seized on the crank!!!!!!
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Might be ok, the likes of Merlin Pete might be able to advise as he does these all the time.
it's just a test engine needs a prop as it acts as the flywheel for the engine but you do not really want to be producing a load of thrust from it if that makes sense, otherwise it will be trying to drag you, the stand and the engine along behind it, erm rather like an aircraft. Mind you saying that Film studio wind machines did use a prop to produce a wind, so you may be ok.
A "club prop" is a test prop that does not produce thrust as such.
Ive taken another cylinder off today and it came off fairly easily but the engine is still tight so the strip down continues just hope its not seized on the crank!!!!!!
Wildside. When you get to the crank, and (As you may have taken the pistons off the wrist pin and con rod, but the bottom bearings are seized, drop me a P.M. I used a chemical, used in Industry and dirt cheap, that I used to use to loosen tight bolts/nuts and anything that was unshiftable. however the item will need to be soaked in a solution of this chemical.
Did you manage to get hold of the Glue?.
Jim.
Lincoln .7
There is no such thing as a problem, just a solution!!
I am going to mount it on a trailer with good brakes and put ground spikes on so it wont fire off across the field when running.
Last edited by wildside; 4th December 2011 at 19:02.
Did you find out if the prop is suitable? Looking good so far BTW
Another cylinder off today thats number three the next one will tighten up but I reckon the rings are stuck to the bore so it will not unscrew. Lots of coca cola down the bore and leave it for a day or two and I hope it frees off. And my new old stock prop is arriving on thursday Im gradually amassing the bits now and hope to get it running in the spring.
I've had a lot of success freeing off pistons by pouring very hot oil down the bore. Not sure I'd put something containing acids or water in an engine if I didn't have to.
Diesel is pretty searching too
Richard
Bad news four hours twisting cylinder backwards and forwards and ive only succeded in tightening it up it screws into thread very easily but will not unscrew at all. the piston moves in the cylinder when doing up but jams totally when trying to undo and i dont want to bend the con rod ive fill ed the cylinder with brake fluid coke easit and oil and heated it up to running temperature. help anybody got any ideas????? (i cannot get to the bolts for the crankpin they are behind the conrod)
Last edited by wildside; 7th December 2011 at 17:49.
The hot oil trick works by setting up some differential expansion. Start with a cold cylinder and tip in boiling hot oil. Leave a short while, then try moving the piston
Otherwise, maybe it's time for BF&I*
Richard
*Brute Force and Ignorance - my speciality
Would mention something like mouse milk but as you don't bother having the courtesy to replying to prop question do not think I will?
Oh and as for glueing cases, an aircraft engine is a whole different ball game with the stresses on it, if you intend to run it get it properly welded, if the damn thing let's go, which it will, the flying bits can and will kill someone and you will be held responsible, so if you cannot afford to do what is needed do not run it!
Last edited by TonyT; 4th December 2011 at 18:44.
All seven cylinder are now off it took 5 hours and a lot of sweating and the crank turns freely. The prop should be ok as it is brand new old stock and various people I have asked reckon it should be.
Last edited by wildside; 7th December 2011 at 17:49.
Aluminium. Is awful to weld, if you do not have experience of welding it, get someone that has
Seconded. Aluminium is tricky, to say the least
Richard
Last edited by Peter; 13th June 2012 at 13:06. Reason: dont quote posts directly above yours
A different use for a radial engine. Made or converted by alu weld.de Its fitted into a goggomobile car and I found it while looking at radial engines on youtube
Naaa.......
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fU_HYXOgbRw
now that's more like it![]()
Thats the bomber bike proper bit of kit wouldnt want it to fall on your leg though. Very Happy today my prop has arrived and on the plate is says 1940 cheetah IX and it is brand new not a mark on it it looks big in my small house though and wont fit in my shed where the engine is![]()
Heres my cheetah prop ive got it as an ornament in the spare bedroom at the moment so it does not get damaged ive got 6 inches clearance to the roof! And a picture of one of the magnetos ive got another coming in the post. Just need a starting magneto and hand starter and starter motor then thats the electrical side dealt with.
very good news I do not need the services of the rip off tig welder as a very kind gentleman is selling me three cylinders so my broken ones will not need repairing now. Next plan of attack is to get the front cover off and clean out the horrible anti corrosion inhibitor thats causing the crank to be stiff ive looked in the with a torch and its packed full of the stuff! also my prop hub should be here in the next day or so. So its all coming together slowly!![]()
Im nearly there with my parts collecting its very exciting and like christmas early with all these packages arriving. Has any body got or know of a starter either hand or electric for a cheetah engine or an alvis leonides for a reasonable price as that would nearly complete my large needed spares list any help would be gratefully received as im getting keen and want to try and have her running at some stage next year !
Last edited by wildside; 15th December 2011 at 07:44.
I now have got 98% of the parts I need to start on the rebuild Just looking for a starter motor or hand starter and one resonably priced magneto as i have enough parts out of the three i have to build one good one.
Got a number for the starter motor?
Bruce
The type is co 216 rotation clockwise on starter
The latest problem is the two magneto drives are corroded beyond repair. The next problem I have come across is that the rear main bearing seems to be unobtainable so may have to get my original sleeved reground and new rollers. Its all good fun this engine rebuilding game.
Last edited by wildside; 17th December 2011 at 16:34.
I'll have a look for the starter - dont hold your breath!
Bruce
I did a part number search on Partsbase, again no luck.
Ok thankyou.
More bits have arrived today thanks to a fellow cheetah rebuilder! Three very good condition cylinders some very tidy push rod tubes and exhaust deflectors and gaskets in their original box and a avro anson rev counter (from that auction site) just need two mag drives now and a rear main bearing but will probably need more spares soon......
FYI , I have three props in my collecction for these engines
merry christmas every one and thankyou all who have helped with my restoration
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