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Thread: Armstrong Siddeley Cheetah Engine

  1. #61
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    4,238
    Might be ok, the likes of Merlin Pete might be able to advise as he does these all the time.
    it's just a test engine needs a prop as it acts as the flywheel for the engine but you do not really want to be producing a load of thrust from it if that makes sense, otherwise it will be trying to drag you, the stand and the engine along behind it, erm rather like an aircraft. Mind you saying that Film studio wind machines did use a prop to produce a wind, so you may be ok.

    A "club prop" is a test prop that does not produce thrust as such.

  2. #62
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    somerset uk
    Posts
    103
    Ive taken another cylinder off today and it came off fairly easily but the engine is still tight so the strip down continues just hope its not seized on the crank!!!!!!

  3. #63
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Bomber Country. Lincolnshire
    Posts
    5,499
    Wildside. When you get to the crank, and (As you may have taken the pistons off the wrist pin and con rod, but the bottom bearings are seized, drop me a P.M. I used a chemical, used in Industry and dirt cheap, that I used to use to loosen tight bolts/nuts and anything that was unshiftable. however the item will need to be soaked in a solution of this chemical.
    Did you manage to get hold of the Glue?.
    Jim.

    Lincoln .7
    There is no such thing as a problem, just a solution!!

  4. #64
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    somerset uk
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    103
    I am going to mount it on a trailer with good brakes and put ground spikes on so it wont fire off across the field when running.
    Last edited by wildside; 4th December 2011 at 19:02.

  5. #65
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
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    4,238
    Did you find out if the prop is suitable? Looking good so far BTW

  6. #66
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    somerset uk
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    103
    Another cylinder off today thats number three the next one will tighten up but I reckon the rings are stuck to the bore so it will not unscrew. Lots of coca cola down the bore and leave it for a day or two and I hope it frees off. And my new old stock prop is arriving on thursday Im gradually amassing the bits now and hope to get it running in the spring.

  7. #67
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Kenilworth
    Posts
    554
    I've had a lot of success freeing off pistons by pouring very hot oil down the bore. Not sure I'd put something containing acids or water in an engine if I didn't have to.

    Diesel is pretty searching too

    Richard

  8. #68
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    somerset uk
    Posts
    103
    Bad news four hours twisting cylinder backwards and forwards and ive only succeded in tightening it up it screws into thread very easily but will not unscrew at all. the piston moves in the cylinder when doing up but jams totally when trying to undo and i dont want to bend the con rod ive fill ed the cylinder with brake fluid coke easit and oil and heated it up to running temperature. help anybody got any ideas????? (i cannot get to the bolts for the crankpin they are behind the conrod)
    Last edited by wildside; 7th December 2011 at 17:49.

  9. #69
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Kenilworth
    Posts
    554
    The hot oil trick works by setting up some differential expansion. Start with a cold cylinder and tip in boiling hot oil. Leave a short while, then try moving the piston

    Otherwise, maybe it's time for BF&I*

    Richard

    *Brute Force and Ignorance - my speciality

  10. #70
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    4,238
    Would mention something like mouse milk but as you don't bother having the courtesy to replying to prop question do not think I will?

    Oh and as for glueing cases, an aircraft engine is a whole different ball game with the stresses on it, if you intend to run it get it properly welded, if the damn thing let's go, which it will, the flying bits can and will kill someone and you will be held responsible, so if you cannot afford to do what is needed do not run it!
    Last edited by TonyT; 4th December 2011 at 18:44.

  11. #71
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    somerset uk
    Posts
    103
    All seven cylinder are now off it took 5 hours and a lot of sweating and the crank turns freely. The prop should be ok as it is brand new old stock and various people I have asked reckon it should be.
    Last edited by wildside; 7th December 2011 at 17:49.

  12. #72
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    Oct 2006
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    4,238
    Aluminium. Is awful to weld, if you do not have experience of welding it, get someone that has

  13. #73
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    Dec 2010
    Location
    Kenilworth
    Posts
    554
    Seconded. Aluminium is tricky, to say the least

    Richard
    Last edited by Peter; 13th June 2012 at 13:06. Reason: dont quote posts directly above yours

  14. #74
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    somerset uk
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    103
    A different use for a radial engine. Made or converted by alu weld.de Its fitted into a goggomobile car and I found it while looking at radial engines on youtube

  15. #75
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    4,238
    Naaa.......






    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fU_HYXOgbRw

    now that's more like it

  16. #76
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    somerset uk
    Posts
    103
    Thats the bomber bike proper bit of kit wouldnt want it to fall on your leg though. Very Happy today my prop has arrived and on the plate is says 1940 cheetah IX and it is brand new not a mark on it it looks big in my small house though and wont fit in my shed where the engine is

  17. #77
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    somerset uk
    Posts
    103
    Heres my cheetah prop ive got it as an ornament in the spare bedroom at the moment so it does not get damaged ive got 6 inches clearance to the roof! And a picture of one of the magnetos ive got another coming in the post. Just need a starting magneto and hand starter and starter motor then thats the electrical side dealt with.
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  18. #78
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    somerset uk
    Posts
    103
    very good news I do not need the services of the rip off tig welder as a very kind gentleman is selling me three cylinders so my broken ones will not need repairing now. Next plan of attack is to get the front cover off and clean out the horrible anti corrosion inhibitor thats causing the crank to be stiff ive looked in the with a torch and its packed full of the stuff! also my prop hub should be here in the next day or so. So its all coming together slowly!

  19. #79
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    somerset uk
    Posts
    103
    Im nearly there with my parts collecting its very exciting and like christmas early with all these packages arriving. Has any body got or know of a starter either hand or electric for a cheetah engine or an alvis leonides for a reasonable price as that would nearly complete my large needed spares list any help would be gratefully received as im getting keen and want to try and have her running at some stage next year !
    Last edited by wildside; 15th December 2011 at 07:44.

  20. #80
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    somerset uk
    Posts
    103
    I now have got 98% of the parts I need to start on the rebuild Just looking for a starter motor or hand starter and one resonably priced magneto as i have enough parts out of the three i have to build one good one.

  21. #81
    Join Date
    Dec 1999
    Posts
    6,438
    Got a number for the starter motor?

    Bruce

  22. #82
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    somerset uk
    Posts
    103
    The type is co 216 rotation clockwise on starter

  23. #83
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    somerset uk
    Posts
    103
    The latest problem is the two magneto drives are corroded beyond repair. The next problem I have come across is that the rear main bearing seems to be unobtainable so may have to get my original sleeved reground and new rollers. Its all good fun this engine rebuilding game.
    Last edited by wildside; 17th December 2011 at 16:34.

  24. #84
    Join Date
    Dec 1999
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    6,438
    I'll have a look for the starter - dont hold your breath!



    Bruce

  25. #85
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    4,238
    I did a part number search on Partsbase, again no luck.

  26. #86
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    somerset uk
    Posts
    103
    Ok thankyou.

  27. #87
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    somerset uk
    Posts
    103
    More bits have arrived today thanks to a fellow cheetah rebuilder! Three very good condition cylinders some very tidy push rod tubes and exhaust deflectors and gaskets in their original box and a avro anson rev counter (from that auction site) just need two mag drives now and a rear main bearing but will probably need more spares soon......
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  28. #88
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Aerodrome of Democracy
    Posts
    172
    FYI , I have three props in my collecction for these engines

  29. #89
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    somerset uk
    Posts
    103
    Quote Originally Posted by wildside View Post
    Hi there ive seen it he is restoring one as well and I have been in contact maybe some bits may change hands thank you for that. The restoration is still on going im just cleaning and blasting parts at the moment ready for painting its starting to look good.
    Had one email back saying that he had all the parts I needed then silence no more comunication at all another waste of time

  30. #90
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    somerset uk
    Posts
    103
    merry christmas every one and thankyou all who have helped with my restoration

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