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Thread: A Whitley story...in scale

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    4
    Alex thanks for your answer

    With Question No. 4 I meant the following:
    Look at your pic number 2. I noticed that you riveted the stringer and frames, and the field between the frames and stringers look so great. Really as a formed Aluminium sheet that is riveted to a frame.
    Ok fantastic, just tell me when your ready with them, the really look fantastic and your really doing an awsome job.
    Ah could you tell me wich Tamiya Lancaster Kit number you meant for the rear turret?

    Best regards
    And all the best wishes

    Chris

  2. #32
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    Oct 2010
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    Fuselage is completed.

    Hi guys
    This is my next step. As far as you can the fuselage is totally completed, ready to be painted.
    Let’s get things from the beginning

    BOMB BAY – UNIVERSAL bomb racks.

    We have started by making the 12 Universal Bomb carriers.
    LOOP ANTENNA – CREW DOOR – MAIN BODY’S FUEL TANK
    I painted them in black and I glued them into bomb bay’s main cells.





    The bomb bays doors were not so difficult to be done.



    I had to make the correct Loop Antenna in its accurate dimensions. Here you can see mine’s compared to Sanger’s one…



    Next step concerns the main Crew door. I decided to make the one which falls down with the retractable ladder located on.



    According to Elliott’s info, I finished the aluminum petrol tank.



    TAIL WINGS

    After 2 weeks of hard work, I managed to build the tail wings. I had to represent the fabric surfaces in combination with the metal parts..



    [img width=800 height=533]http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/7526/dsc00192xe.jpg[/img]



    FRONT AND REAR TURRETS
    FN 4

    This is the FN.4. At this point I have to say, that I used the Tamiya’s clear part for Lancaster’s Fn.20 turret. Unfortunately this piece, extremely limited me, so that I can work correctly to return the actual structure of Fn.4, and constantly had to create the structure trying to match the clear piece of Tamiya.,









    Going further, we made the

    FN 16

    Here we had easier task. Everything is made from scratch plus the Vickers gun built from an old Browning and syringes. The transparent mold from my mold, was fitted like a glove.
    Both towers were painted in the colors of Coastal Command and are ready to be installed at the end without being concerned with the masking of ...






  3. #33
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    Oct 2010
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    …and the most difficult part… All parts together. Unbelievable difficulty, especially on modifying my Vacuum canopy to fit on the frame made before.









    Here is the end of the fuselage. Totally finished. I’m getting very tired, so I have to take a rest for a while. The second season concerns the new scratcbuilt wings, nacelles, and undercarriage.. Not so difficult as the fuselage.
    Thank You for your attention. I hope you like it.
    Alex

  4. #34
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    Mar 2004
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    Harlow Essex
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    1,217
    Only one word..........
    Outstanding!
    Hertfordshire Airfields Memorial Group
    http://hamg.co.uk

    www.wartime-airfields.com

  5. #35
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    Dec 1999
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    London
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    Very nice progress Alex - thanks for posting! It seems a real pity to cover up all the wonderful interior details. Beautiful!

  6. #36
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    and again



    Fantastic job, never seen such a thing of beauty in scale

    Cees

  7. #37
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    Oct 2010
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    Greece
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    Thank Guys. I appreciate it. I hope i'm doing a good job... It is very difficult project. Everything has to be made by scratch...

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Frome Somerset
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    1,925
    Beautiful work.totally mindblowing detail..you should be very proud
    `Information is the currency of democracy`. Thomas Jefferson

  9. #39
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    I'm afraid it is superlatives time again, but what you have achieved is absolutely incredible!

    Quick question Alex, what is the reason for covering everything in metal or foil, when it will be painted over and not seen?
    Seems a lot of work for a feature that will be hidden, but there must be a very good reason for it.

  10. #40
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    Oct 2010
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    Thank you hindenburg. I'm trying for my best...but nothing is finished yet... Long way to go...

    Quick question Alex, what is the reason for covering everything in metal or foil, when it will be painted over and not seen?
    Seems a lot of work for a feature that will be hidden, but there must be a very good reason for it.
    Quick question...easy answers...

    At first... i hate plastic. I love working on metal. Morever I used to work on alluminum wrap on models since 2007. I like the surface has embossed rivets and not engraved and the only way to succeed is to work with a new Skin applied. It looks more real even if that is painted. I hope that my answers, have covered your question! Thank U for your kind comments.

    Alex.
    Mechanical Engineer

  11. #41
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    It certainly has and makes perfect sense, you are painting over metal and all its detail like the real aircraft would be.

    Fantastic work.

  12. #42
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    99
    This man's modelling skills are truly incredible. How does anyone achieve THAT level of skill? Brilliant.

  13. #43
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    1
    Superb work Alex. When you have finished it might be an idea to send Gerald Elliot of Sanger some pictures of the Whitley. He likes to add pictures of completed models to his website as examples of what can be achieved with the kits. Your skills deserve a wider showcase.

    I have a few questions about the materials and techniques you are using - if it's not too difficult to form the aluminium sheet I might try it myself one day.

    Can you show us the tools you use to work the aluminium sheet?
    What do you score it with? Do you lay it on a rubber mat for scoring? And what do you punch the rivets with? Some kind of pounce (cog) wheel?

    What glue do you use to stick the aluminium sheet to the plastic?
    What gauge (thickness) of sheet do you use? (Is this what RC modellers call litho plate?)
    Do you anneal it (heat it) to make it more malleable (softer)? How do you get the sheet to form compound curvatures e.g at the extreme nose and tail of the Whitley? Does it ever split?

    When you cover both sides of the rudder (say) with aluminium does it make the trailing edge very thick? If not, how do you avoid this? At the wing tip edges where the top and bottom sheets of aluminium have to blend together how do you get a nice join? Is it just an overlap or do you use filler?

    Do you use only hand tools to drill, cut and file the sheet - or are some power tools needed?

    Finally, do you use magnifying glasses for the fine detail work - or do you have super eyesight?

  14. #44
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    Oct 2010
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    Greece
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stu-B View Post

    I have a few questions about the materials and techniques you are using - if it's not too difficult to form the aluminium sheet I might try it myself one day.

    Can you show us the tools you use to work the aluminium sheet?
    What do you score it with? Do you lay it on a rubber mat for scoring? And what do you punch the rivets with? Some kind of pounce (cog) wheel?

    What glue do you use to stick the aluminium sheet to the plastic?
    What gauge (thickness) of sheet do you use? (Is this what RC modellers call litho plate?)
    Do you anneal it (heat it) to make it more malleable (softer)? How do you get the sheet to form compound curvatures e.g at the extreme nose and tail of the Whitley? Does it ever split?

    When you cover both sides of the rudder (say) with aluminium does it make the trailing edge very thick? If not, how do you avoid this? At the wing tip edges where the top and bottom sheets of aluminium have to blend together how do you get a nice join? Is it just an overlap or do you use filler?

    Do you use only hand tools to drill, cut and file the sheet - or are some power tools needed?

    Finally, do you use magnifying glasses for the fine detail work - or do you have super eyesight?
    Hi mate,

    Thank you for your compliments. I appreciate that.
    I don't think that Sanger will accept that build. The only parts were used from their kit, was the fuselage halves.. Everything else are scartchbuilt.

    I will try to answer to your questions.

    1. I use dremmel, pantograph and a new heating tool (shown in my new update following)
    2. For scoring I have made some wooden forms
    3. I use epoxy glue mostly
    4. I use 0,10 – 0,15 aluminum sheet
    5. Yes I do use heating in order to form the sheet on curved surfaces.
    6. Yes it splits, but I seal it with glue, or putty.
    7. I join them with sanding and sometimes by putty
    8. No, only hand jeweler’s tools
    9. No, I hate glasses! I can’t work with them!!! I do not have a super eyesight.

    Regards
    Alex.

    Hi guys. Time for a little update.
    I can show you some of the process behind the scenes ... In case you decide to make something from absolutely nothing; everything must start from a base to work on.
    So, everything starts with the "bricks" . Balsa wood, fillers, the always required Milliput, plans, 100ria sandpaper, and sanding, sanding, and again sanding! Endless scrubbing, corrections, modifications, endless, endless ... resets....
    The wing of the Whitley is characterized by a "dihedral breaking" in the middle of its surface. Therefore had to be formed by 2 parts ... The main part where the engine nacelles will placed on and the secondary part of the exterior wing .
    We started by making the basic brick. Additions and some miliput, filler, putty, for the wingtips we built the wings ...





    Going further, we have started making the nacelles and undercarriage gondola. Lots of plastic sheet, stripes, and putty, and some parts of Sanger’s nacelles Vacuum, we made the accurate shape of engine’s gondola.

    Taking a piece of Balsa wood, we gave the final shape of the nacelle according to the correct dimensions. Miliput was applied on and formed the body.. Much work to do while waiting to dry. Pantograph and Dremmel tools will make the curves and shapes...







    To tell you the truth I was a little bored in making a second copy. I intend to present the other engine compartment and undercarriage totally stripped.
    After scrubbing the boat and Priming, the gondola was perfectly curved in its correct shape.





    After allowing 2 days and nights of the brick (balsa wood dressed with miliput) to dry quite well, I used Dremmel tools again to start giving the shape. Lots of sanding!!!!





    No time to waist, We glued it on the undercarriage gondola, in order to make all the final touches by working on a compact piece.




    We let it dry and we have started making the ailerons. 2 pieces of plastic only… sanded and formed to fit on the wings.





    Merlin has acquired a new home already..!



    Next step the final result.
    So, after reinforcing by workbench with this "baby", and after burning 3 of my the fingertips of my right hand ... the dressmaker began to wear the costume.



    Here I will say that I used to work with a stove and a lighter, but never had to "melt" the aluminum sheet in such curves ... The bad point was that everything on my piece was curved. I confess that I haven’t found the "easy and safe" solution yet...
    At this point; there was no need to wrap the nacelle with aluminum. The whole piece was perfectly built. I could make a resin copy.
    Anyway, this is the final result.



    Here we can see the beginning (Zero point) and the End. How a simple trimmed piece of balsa, with the appropriate work, can be transformed to a something good.



    Thank you for your attention.
    Last edited by Alex Kontiveis; 1st July 2011 at 08:18.

  15. #45
    Join Date
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    16,650
    My first visit to this thread ... and I am simply stunned.

    It is one I shall return to often.

    Moggy
    "What you must remember" Flip said "is that nine-tenths of Cattermole's charm lies beneath the surface." Many agreed.

  16. #46
    Join Date
    Dec 1999
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    London
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    Hi Alex

    The nacelle looks truely superb! Very nice work indeed.
    Last edited by Whitley_Project; 14th July 2011 at 17:14.

  17. #47
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    Feb 2010
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    Yorkshire. Next to runway 08/26
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    Simply outstanding work. A Whitley Masterpiece in scale would be a more apt thread title I feel.
    Victor XL231 Blog- http://victorxl231.blogspot.com/
    Home of the V-force on the web: http://twittervforce.com/

  18. #48
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    Jun 2004
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    Near Coventry
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    Alex, It's difficult to comment without profanity.

    You sir, are a craftsman and artist - I would love to have a fraction of your talent!

    Keep up the good work, awesome.
    Basic Flying Rules:
    1. Try to stay in the middle of the air.
    2. Do not go near the edges of it.
    3. The edges of the air can be recognized by the appearance of ground, buildings, sea, trees and interstellar space. It is much more difficult to fly there.

  19. #49
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    Sep 2006
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    Amazing work, Alex.

    I seem to be out of suitable superlatives at the moment, but for now, I shall echo what Cees said back in Post #36!

    Like Moggy C, I shall be returning to this thread. Often.


    Don

  20. #50
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    Sep 2009
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    Hi Alex,

    What's the current state of play?

    Cees

  21. #51
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    Greece
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    Quote Originally Posted by CeBro View Post
    Hi Alex,

    What's the current state of play?

    Cees
    Hi Cees,

    To tell you the truth, the project is paused for a while. I have already finished a RR armoured car 1/35 scale and I'm working on a He-162 now, for the Hellenic Modellers Show on November 17th.
    However I did some interesting progress. Both of the wings are already finished, the stripped wheel wells, fuel tanks, etc. Ready to be mounted on the fuselage.

    But all these are not enough for a post at the moment. I want to finish the engine mountings, and the landing gears.

    Best regards
    Alex

  22. #52
    Join Date
    May 2010
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    in the back country; of Southern California
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    Thumbs up

    Alex
    just discovered you work, your modeling artristry is outstanding.

    To see your work gives me insperation to try to scratch build a part, if needed--BUT not at you level.

    Again thank you for shareing your work.

    Pilot: Number 3 engine missing.
    Maintance: Engine found on right wing after brief search.

  23. #53
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
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    1,542
    Totally amazing and a little depressing knowing I'll never be that good.
    Love the little details in the turrets.

  24. #54
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Greece
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    65
    Hi guys…and thank you for your Kind words as always. True gentlemen.

    Long time has passed since my last update. To be honest with you, I took a break by making 4 other easy models in 1/48. There is no interest for our hobby any more. The problems in Greece are huge. People see their lifes, sinking day by day, taxes on taxes, no jobs, young men are begging for a part time job, … no production. Every day we hear only one thing. New Tax has to be paid. Anyway. Lets step forward to my progress to date.


    The starboard engine nacelle is attached on the new correct wing. Primered and sanded and checked for any defects. On the port wing, I will not place a combact engine nacelle like the one on the starboard wing. I will show all undercariage and power plat totally stripped.






    I made the flaps and their details. Not an easy job folks…as far as you can see.



    I joined the new scratbuild wings on the fuselage and the model is waiting for its primers.





    Next step concerns the undercarriage system and wheels. Unfortunately Sanger, provides a bad copy of them, not accurate. I had to build a new set from brass tubes and plastic card.









    Whitley’s wheels were a serious problem. I hardly managed to find smooth resin tyres with correct dimensions. I finally did. I bought Griffon’s Smooth tyres for Wellington in 1/48 (the last available piece in stock). Then I made the rims with brass and steel rings, in purpose to achieve a nice simulation of the real ones according to my data.


    Next follows the power plant's structure, where I’ m going to attach the engine body and all the other components…

    I hope you like it so far. Any comments are always welcome.
    Last edited by Alex Kontiveis; 10th January 2012 at 09:29.

  25. #55
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    Outstanding... simply outstanding.
    Victor XL231 Blog- http://victorxl231.blogspot.com/
    Home of the V-force on the web: http://twittervforce.com/

  26. #56
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    May 2010
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    in the back country; of Southern California
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    Alex;
    Well done! the engine and wing are a
    and the progress on the port wing is good to see.
    Best wishes to you in this New Year.

    Pilot: Number 3 engine missing.
    Maintance: Engine found on right wing after brief search.

  27. #57
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    Sep 2006
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    Derbyshire
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    Truly amazing work, Alex.
    I have difficulty in referring to this as "Modelling" - This is something that transcends that title... "Work of art", perhaps?

    The only thing missing now is the means to convert your amazing masterpiece to 1:1 scale!

    Thank you for sharing your wonderful project with us.

    Kind Regards,

    Don

  28. #58
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    Oct 2010
    Location
    Greece
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    Red face

    Hi guys. Thank you once again for your kind comments. I promise you, that I will never…ever touch a twin engine bomber again.

    I was ready to proceed with the making of the engine. However, I realized that something went wrong ... I decided to create a Jig, so I can adjust the final weighing of construction, undercarriage, wheel wells, and engine. Then... a tragic mistake appeared front of me.

    Although during the construction progress all my measurements concerning the undercarriage on the wings were correct ... when I fitted both wings on the fuselage and checked the final positions (again)... I noticed that the undercarriage mounting had a deviation of 2.5 mm from the correct position. And not only that ... I fell victim to the plans and should have built the wing’s beam 7 mm towards to the rear.
    Not a second thought ...



    Pictures speak by themselves!! I re-built the wing’s section, this time according to the correct plans.



    Next follows the wheel well’s structure, firewall, and engine beam, Made by using metal tubes, evergreen strips, and brass sheet. The Oil tank was made by Balsa wood. The compartment adjusted exactly on the new wing beam. The Jig helps a lot and I achieved the correct balanced for both of the engines. It looks easy but its NOT. I spent many hours to calculate the correct angles in purpose to achieve the accurate positions.









    One more step will follow soon, concerning the merlin. Then painting job is about to begin.

    Here you can see the corrected wing, and undercarriage structure and mounting.







    That's all for today. I hope to like it.

    Alex

  29. #59
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    A masterpiece. Thankyou for sharing your work with us.
    Victor XL231 Blog- http://victorxl231.blogspot.com/
    Home of the V-force on the web: http://twittervforce.com/

  30. #60
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    Oct 2010
    Location
    Greece
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    TNX a lot Blue2. I appreciate it

    ... The problems in my country are very serious. My modelling interest is lost, there is no time for my hobby any more. I have to take care my family. Anyway I managed to finish the Merlin and its components. The model is almost ready for the painting job. I don't know when i'm gonna finish it. I hope to make some progress soon














    Here are the materials been used for the making of. An Aires resin Merlin item, modified for the version 20. Evergreen strips, balsa wood, aluminum foil, brass tubes etc. My tools are following next.





    i hope you like it.

    PS. QUESTION.
    What color should i paint the aluminum ladder? I'm talking about the ladder that the mechanics and RAF personnel, used for the engine maintenance. Not the wooden one.

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